Fly Tying Hooks for Beginners: Sizes & Types

Choosing fly tying hooks becomes much easier when you start with the fly you want to tie. The size gives you a starting point; the shape, wire thickness, shank length, gape, eye and barb determine whether that hook suits the pattern. You do not need a drawer full of specialist models to begin.

This guide explains the main hook types used for UK trout fishing and shows how to choose a small, useful selection from our fly tying hooks. If dry flies, nymphs and wet flies are still unfamiliar, start with our beginner’s guide to trout flies.

Understanding fly tying hook sizes

In the usual numbered trout-fly range, a higher number means a smaller hook. Within the same model, a size 12 is larger than a size 16. The system changes once you reach sizes written with “/0”: a 2/0 is larger than a 1/0. Most beginners tying ordinary trout patterns do not need to start with these larger sizes.

Sizes 12 and 14 give you a practical amount of space for learning thread control and proportions. Sizes 16 and 18 suit smaller patterns but leave less room for a neat head. These are examples, not fixed rules for every dry fly or nymph.

A hook number is not a universal measurement in millimetres. Two size-14 hooks can have different shank lengths, gapes and overall shapes, especially across manufacturers. Check the model as well as the number when following a recipe.

Main parts of a fly tying hook

• Eye: the small loop through which you attach your tippet. Keep it clear of thread, varnish and resin.
• Shank: the section behind the eye on which most of the fly is tied.
• Bend: the curved section leading from the shank towards the point.
• Gape: the space between the point and the shank. Bulky dressing should not fill this gap.
• Point: the sharp tip. Avoid catching it with scissors or damaging it in the vice.
• Barb: a small backward-facing projection behind the point, absent on purpose-made barbless hooks.

The eye may be straight, downturned or upturned. A straight eye points along the shank; a downturned eye angles towards the point. Match the pattern’s recommendation rather than assuming that every dry or wet fly needs one eye style.

Types of fly tying hooks and when to use them

Dry fly hooks

Dry flies are intended to fish at the surface, so many dry-fly hooks use relatively light wire and a straight or gently shaped shank. Patterns such as an Adams or an Elk Hair Caddis usually need a hook that supports the dressing without adding unnecessary weight.

The metal hook itself does not float. The fly’s materials, proportions and surface support help it stay up. A heavy hook can make this harder, but “dry fly” does not automatically mean the finest wire available: read the individual model description.

Turrall Barbless Dry Fly Hooks are a dry-fly option in our range, with a downturned eye and wide gape. The listing specifies 1x strong wire, so they should not be confused with an extra-fine-wire model.

Nymph hooks

Nymph hooks suit underwater insect imitations, including Pheasant Tail and Hare’s Ear-style patterns. Standard or heavier wire is common; straight profiles give room for a segmented body, while curved models can suggest a curled insect. Some recipes require a longer shank, others a compact one.

For a longer, heavy-wire option, see Maruto I11 Nymph Hooks. For standard nymphs as well as wet flies, the Turrall wet-fly model below offers a useful crossover.

Using a bead? Check the bead’s hole, the hook bend and the manufacturer’s size guidance before tying a batch. A bead must pass over the point and bend and sit properly behind the eye. Jig hooks commonly use slotted beads. Hook size alone does not guarantee a fit; our brass versus tungsten bead guide explains the choice of bead material.

Wet fly hooks

Traditional wet flies, including soft hackles and winged patterns, are dressed to fish below the surface. Their hooks often use stronger or heavier wire than lightweight dry-fly models. Avoid treating “wet” and “nymph” as completely separate boxes: a suitable model can serve both.

Turrall Barbless Sproat Wet Fly Hooks are listed for wet flies and standard nymphs, with a downturned eye and 1x strong wire. This makes them a useful type to consider before buying several specialist nymph hooks.

Buzzer and midge hooks

Buzzers imitate chironomid pupae. Curved buzzer or grub-style hooks help form a slim, curved body, although some patterns use straighter hooks. Leave space behind the eye for the thorax and keep the body neat rather than building up unnecessary bulk.

Kamasan B100 Hooks Medium Wire Shrimp & Buzzer have medium wire, a short shank and a loop bend. They provide a specific example of the curved style used for buzzer and shrimp patterns. Check barb requirements before choosing a model.

Streamer and lure hooks

Streamers and stillwater lures often need more shank space for a longer body, wing or tail. Stronger wire is common, but shank length and strength still depend on the individual pattern. Woolly Bugger-style flies and small baitfish imitations are familiar examples.

The Maruto i09 Streamer Hook is listed with a long shank, heavy wire and a downturned eye. Choose the size for the fly you are tying; a long-shank hook is not necessary for every lure.

Barbed versus barbless hooks

A barbed hook has a small projection behind the point; a purpose-made barbless hook does not. Anglers often choose barbless hooks for easier unhooking, and some fisheries require them. Check your venue’s current rules before buying or tying flies.

Both types can be tied in the normal way. A purpose-made barbless hook avoids the need to crush a barb. If your fishery accepts debarbed hooks, flatten the barb carefully before tying and inspect the hook for damage. Keep the point and gape clear whichever type you use.

Browse our barbless fly tying hooks when that is the right choice for your fishing. Barbless is a feature, not a complete hook specification: you still need the correct shape, wire and length.

Hook wire thickness: light, standard and heavy

• Light or fine wire: reduces hook weight and is often used for delicate surface patterns.
• Standard wire: a middle ground for the model’s intended use; it is not one fixed diameter across all brands.
• Heavy or strong wire: adds weight and is often used for subsurface flies or situations needing greater strength.

Labels such as 1x fine or 2x heavy compare a hook with the manufacturer’s reference for that size. Wire diameter alone does not determine strength: design and manufacture matter too. Likewise, a fly’s sinking behaviour depends on beads and dressing as well as the hook.

Hook shank length: short, standard and long

Short shanks suit compact bodies, including many grub and buzzer patterns. Standard shanks offer useful proportions for many ordinary trout flies. Long shanks give extra tying space for extended nymph bodies, streamers and lures.

Markings such as 1XL, 2XL or 3XL indicate longer-than-standard shanks; 2XL does not simply mean twice the length. Compare the maker’s specification and the recipe. Changing shank length changes the space for the body without necessarily giving you the same change in gape.

Straight versus curved hooks

Straight-shank hooks make a straightforward foundation for many dries, wet flies, nymphs and streamers. Curved shanks can follow the outline of buzzers, caddis pupae or shrimps. Neither shape is automatically better: choose the profile that suits the insect or other food item you want to suggest.

Do not confuse shank shape with eye direction. A hook can have a largely straight shank and a downturned eye. Look at the whole hook drawing or photograph, not just one term on the packet.

Which hooks should a beginner buy first?

Choose two or three patterns you want to learn, then buy a small selection that covers them. One suitable size per model is enough to begin; you can add smaller sizes once your proportions and thread control improve.

1. A dry-fly hook: consider the Turrall Barbless Dry Fly Hooks in size 12 or 14 for an appropriate beginner dry-fly recipe.
2. A wet/nymph hook: the Turrall Barbless Sproat Wet Fly Hooks offer sizes 12 and 14 and cover wet flies and standard nymphs.
3. A curved buzzer hook: consider the Kamasan B100 for a buzzer recipe, checking both the required size and your fishery’s barb policy.
4. Optional streamer hook: add the Maruto i09 Streamer Hook only if streamers or lures are among your first patterns.

These are examples from the Fly Tying World catalogue, not a compulsory kit or a claim that every size is always in stock. Check the current size selector and availability on each product page. If you only intend to tie buzzers, start with a suitable buzzer hook rather than buying every style.

Common beginner mistakes

• Buying by number alone: check the model, shank and gape as well as size.
• Choosing heavy wire for a delicate dry: unnecessary weight can make the finished fly harder to support at the surface.
• Using the wrong shank length: a cramped body or oversized empty area makes proportions harder to judge.
• Assuming brands match exactly: compare hooks when substituting a different manufacturer’s model.
• Crowding the eye or gape: leave space for the knot and keep bulky materials away from the point.
• Buying too many specialist hooks: learn a few useful patterns before expanding the selection.

Quick reference: choosing a hook by fly type

The characteristics below are typical starting points, not universal specifications. On a small screen, swipe the table sideways to read all columns.

Fly tying hooks: beginner FAQs

What size fly tying hook should a beginner use?

Size 12 or 14 is often a manageable starting point for ordinary trout patterns. Choose the hook model specified by the recipe first, then a suitable size. A short curved size 14 will not give you the same tying space as a long-shank size 14.

Why do fly hook sizes seem backwards?

In the common numbered range, increasing the number usually means a smaller hook. The separate “/0” system works in the other direction. Compare sizes within one model before trying to compare different brands.

What is the difference between a dry fly hook and a nymph hook?

Dry-fly models often aim to keep weight down for surface patterns. Nymph hooks commonly use standard or heavier wire and may have straight, curved or jig profiles for underwater flies. The individual specification matters more than the label alone.

Can I use the same hook for different fly patterns?

Yes, when the shape, length and wire suit each recipe. A wet-fly hook may also suit standard nymphs. Avoid forcing a specialist pattern onto an unsuitable hook simply because the size number matches.

Are barbless hooks better for fly tying?

They are not inherently easier to dress, but they can be easier to unhook and may meet your fishery’s requirements. Choose barbed or barbless first where rules require it, then match the rest of the hook specification to the fly.

What hooks do I need to start fly tying?

A dry-fly model, a wet/nymph model and a curved buzzer model cover a useful spread of beginner trout patterns. You may need fewer if your fishing is more specialised. Browse the hook range with two or three recipes in mind rather than buying one of everything.